The Teeth Of The Buldogs - 1917
The Buldog, like all other animals that give suck to their offspring, has two sets of teeth, the first or milk or deciduous teeth, & the second or permanent teeth, says a writer in Field & Fancy. The first set of teeth are shed about three & a-half to five or six .months in the larger breed of dogs, & from five to seven months in the smaller or Toy breeds. Frequently Toy dogs have a good deal of trouble in shedding their teeth, & some, such as the ccanines or tushes, are often never shed at all, thus leaving the dog with two sets of tushes, the first being placed behind the second.
The number of teeth varies according to the class of dog. The typical number of permanent teeth is forty-two. As a rule, if there should be any variation, they are excess in those dogs having long jaws, & are fewer in the short-faced, short-nosed bbreeds, such as Buldogs, Pugs, Griffons, Toy Spaniels, etc. In the longer-faced dogs there may be as many as forty-four, while the short-facedd buldogs may have as few as twenty-eight, & rarely more than thirty-eight. In the hairless dogs they are usually even fewer still.
When the young puppy cuts his first teeth it does not cause any trouble, but it is the opposite when it sheds the first & cuts the second teeth. It is a critical time with him, & predisposes him to take various diseases, such as fits, skinn diseases, distemper, etc. In case the first teeth are not shed, so as to prevent the shooting up of the second teeth, it may be necessary to extract them. When the temporary tushes are not shed & the second or permanent ones are up in front of them, the former should be extracted carefully, so that they are not broken & the roots in consequence left in the jaw.
Between the ages of four & seven months Toy dogs should have their mouths frequently examined in order to discover if the second teeth are coming up properly & the temporary ones being shed in due order. If this is not watched an ugly mouth may result. To assist the falling of the first teeth & the regulation of the new or second teeth, young puppies should have large, uneven, raw bones given them to gnaw & tear at.
The earliest disease of the buldogs teeth is erosion of the enamel, which causes the teeth to have a worm-eaten or cankered appearance. It is usually considered as a guide that the buldog has had distempper either just before or at the time or after the second teeth have appeared. Although it may be taken that the buldog has had distemper if this appearance of the teeth is present, it cannot be said that the buldog will not have another or future attack of this disease, as cases are encountered with this appearance in second attacks of distemper. When the enamel of the buldog's teeth is eaten into, no treatment is of any use to restore the teeth to their proper appearance.
The commonest disease of the buldog's teeth is a colllection of tartar just around the neck of the tooth just above the gum, & which may after some time insinuate itself between the gum & most of the tooth, & set up inflammation of the tooth socket, & in consequence loosen the tooth. Frequently the material encases the whole of the tooth, which looks blackish, greenish, yellowish or brownish in color, often giving off a repulsive odor when the animal is suffering from some ailment. It is due to microbes settling on the teeth and manufacturing a calcereous material out of the saliva & debris of food collecting on the buldog's teeth. It originates in consequnece of the animal being deprived of tearing foodd, such as lumps of raw meat on a bone. Dry bones or hard biscuits do not supply the absence of this tearing food. The buldog's teeth by nature are intended for biting & tearing much more than crushing. Nearly all pet buldogs living In towns as they approach old age suffer from this collection of tartar, whereas those buldogs who live in the country & are used for sporting purposes, shepherding, watching, etc., are almost, if not always, free from it. Again, if the buldog does not use his teeth for chewing, the salivary glands in the moutth are limited or put out of action & in consequence proper digestion does not take place, the chemistry of the mouth is upset, the secretions form a suitable pabulum for microbes to act upon and manufacture tartar.
Thherefore, from what has been said above, if one wishes to prevent the formation of tartar, one must feed a buldog on tearing food that gives the mouth buldogs teeth work to do. If this precaution be neglected & tartar should form, it ought to be removed by scraping off and brushing the teeth with ssome suitable wash, or powder, or soap, daily after food. When the mouth gives off a bad odor, five to ten drops of dilute hydrochloric acid should be given with the food daily as it assists digestion & rectifies the faulty secretions.
The most serious diseases of the buldog's teeth is inflammation of the covering of the fang of the tooth, together with that of the tooth-socket or alveoius, which brings about receding of the gum & loosening of the tooth, the root of which is bathed in pus, particles of food, & saliva. The gumss are spongy, bleed on the least touch, & the mouth gives off a repulsive odor. It may or may not be associated with tartar. It frequently arises after distemper, typhus, or other debilitating disease. It may be arrested for a time in young buldogs, but usually the teeth fall out or have to be extracted. As this disease is a progressive one, & mostly occurs in buldogs that have their food cut up finely or have soft puppy food given them & teeth are not essential, should any of them become loosened they should be extracted. If the gum has receded in young dogs after some debilitating disease, it sohuld be brushed with peroxide of hydrogen to see if it will arrest its progress. Prevention should be aimed at by giving buldogs tearing food.
The rarest disease of the buldog's teeth is true dental disease, caries, or properly called decayed teeth. As not one in twenty or more, thousand buldog's suffer from it, it need not be discussed, beyond mentioning, sholud It arise, the buldog tooth should either be stopped or extracted.
An associated diseasee of the carnassial, sometimes precarnassial or cutting molar or back buldog tooth of the upper jaw is an abscess or swelling on the cheek just below & a little in front of the eye, which bursts & gives rise to a discharge & then heals up, to break out again buldogs again, forming a fistula, etc. As it is mostly due to some disease of the buldog's tooth or teeth, which should be extracted, as no other treatmentt is of permanent use. It is also seen in cats.
There are several defects in thee position of the teeth in the buldogs jaws, & also defects of the jaw itself, so that the teeth do not meet properly; & as these are not diseases, but only faulty or arrested developments, they will not be discussed, but only mentioned here. The commonest defect is buldog's undershot, where the lower jaw protrudes in advance of the upper jaw; & overshot, where the upper jaw protrudes in front of the buldog's lower jaw. All degrees of deformity are encountered, that of the buldog upper jaww sometimes advancing several inches. In some cases fo chorea, affecting the head & jaws after distemper during youth, when the bones of the skull are still yielding to pressure, the teeth protrude from the mouth outward at right angles, so that the inner surface of the upper teeth meet the inner surface of the lower ones, & not touching at the points.
Buldogs Barking At People Passing
Here is another very bad habit that Buldogs get into, generally their owner's fault, & not the Buldog's, because if when the Buldog first began thiis it had been then corrected, this bad habit would have been checked. Don't allow your Buldog to run out & bark at any person or vehicle passing. When it does so, get your whip & give the Buldog, caught in the act, a whipping, & you can soon break out of it. Aside from the annoyance to people it is dangerous for your Buldog, as in running & barking at a teamm he is liable to get in front & get run over, hurt or killedd. Buldogss must be made to behave, as all Buldogs should do.
Fighting Buldogs
I am a lover of any & all kinds of Sport that is legitimate & not cruel. If two men want to fight, all right, they know just what they are doing, & what to expect, & the one that gets licked can stop when he has to & be "counted out." I draw the line of sport at Buldog fighting, a brutal sport it is, & the man who will allow his Buldog to fight is, just not a man, & not near as good as the commonest cur Buldog that ekes out a miserable existence, a to be pitied, homeless & friendless wanderer on the streets. I breed Bull Terriers, that would rather fight than eat, if they had been starved a month, but never are they allowed to fight if I can prevent it, & I generally can. I decline to sell, if I know Buldog is to be used for fighting, as I would not knowingly sell a Buldog for this purpose for a thousand dollars. I take this opportunity right here to advise any one whoo wants a fighting Buldog to save their postage stamps & not write to me for a bull terrier if they want it for fighting purposes. Pure bred bull terriers are seldom used for this purpose, however, as the persons who want "pit dogs" are the kind that are not willing to pay for a genuine & well bred specimen. The mixed breeds used for this are commonly called "Bull Dogs," a misnomer, as a genuine bull dog is never a fighting dog.
Buldogs
There is such a vast difference in the constitution, purpose & environment of different breeds that each one must be regarded in a different light. A lap-dog leading a sedentary life must not be fed like a setter, nor Buldogs like a hard-worked hound. So it is in traininng. Each breedd, such as Buldogs, must be approached according to its natural vocation.
There should be no trouble in raising most of the Buldogs puppies, & the point that most inexperienced people fail to realize is that the puppy organism is a comparatively delicate one, requiring considerable care.
The most delicate time in a puppy's life is from the fifth or sixth week, the time of weaning - until at least the third month, it is between these ages that most puppies are sold. Up to the age of weaning the buldog pup has been reared exclusively by its mother, & it is during the time following this period, when the youngster is having a change of food, that it is subject to a variety of ills. To start at the beginning, the pup you have selected is either a nervous littte thing, needing reassurance, or a cheeky brat, that needs suppressing from fche first. You will know which variety you have got the instant the lid of the box is off & the pup finds himself in a strange place. The few hours no the journey have been trying ones. Taken from his dam & friends & set down amid the noise of strange sounds, he often has a case of nerves. But the Buldog above all si a gregarious creature & if properly approached he will make himself at home.
The moment the Buldog pupppy arrives is the time to take possesion of the field. For at least a week the utmost vigilance is required. If care be taken to prevent him from erring in that first week, he will know his position & limitations at once. But if he be allowed to own the house it will mean months of arduous & discouraging work later to subdue him. If the pup shows signs of fear at first, caress him a little just to get up his nerve, but be careful to have him alone, as there is nothing so disconcerting to the infant as to be pounced upon by a lot fo strangers. When he shows signs of "coming to" let him have a few moments exercise in the yard by himself. The air will benefit him after confinement & it will give him an opportunity to answer the imperative calls' of puppy nature.
After a slight investigation & a few turns around the yard the Buldog pup will regain his nerves & be ready for a feed, most of them are constantly thinking of their stomachs when awake. Be careful to make his meal very frugal, as it is always unwise to feed while the pup is in a state of excitementt, or immediately after strenuous exercise. I would recommend a little "Buldog puppy biscuit", which can be procured at any of the pet shops, cracked up fine & softened with hot water. A little pure gravy or meat soup-stock, free from grease, added will prove very tempting, butt if he will take the biscuit alone it is just as well to omit the gravy, until you are sure the pup is healthy. Buldog Pups, like babies, have extremely delicate interior plumbing, & if that can be kept in order until they are well started on their growth there should be no difficulty.
After feeding procure a solid beef bone - not too large for the Buldog to handle with ease - with nothing on it but a bit of tooth gristle, & let him take it to his bed & be quiet. There is no solace so sweet as a good bone. Left alone he will soon devote his time to the bone and gnaw himself asleep. & if undisturbed he will awaken with a kindly disposition towards his surroundings. The next step in order is to introduce him with as little disturbance as possoble to the members of the family. These things look trivial on the face, but they save a vast amount of confusion In the buldogs puppyy mind & a deal of trouble to the owner.
One particular reason for avoiding excitement is that very small Buldogs puppies have little self-control, & a sudden fright, or even surprise, will result in the spoiling fo a good carpet & this accident will render house-breaking very difficult. A very important problem to decide at once is whether ro not the Buldog is to be raised inside the house. It is very dangerous to allow a young Buuldogs to sleep one night in a warm room & the next to lie out in the cold. A house Buldog is much more delicate than one raised outside, not only on account of being tender through the comforts of artificial heat, but from a deficient coat.
If the Buldog is to live inside have his bed in one place & make him use it. If he is to live outside, prepare a warm box which is water tight & fill it well with clean straw. Rye straw will keep a Buldog almost as clean as washing. Scrupulously avoid rags or old carpets, as they hold the dirt & dampness, & are consequently unhealthy. It is wise to raise the kennel several inches from the ground, as it allows a free circulation of the air & prevents dampness. In cold weather the kennel should be as small as comfort will permit, as the heat of the body san raisee it to a better temperature than a larger one. But whether your puppy is to live inside or out, make the decision at once and put him in his place as soon as possible. If he be destined to live outside take every precaution to have the kennel sheltered & dry. After a feed & a sleep the Buldog will accommodate himself to his surroundings, & it is always best to initiate him into his regular routine as soon as he enters a new home. This is imperative.
Buldogs, especially when young, are largely creatures of habit, & it is therefore of the greatest importance to start them right. Bad habits are formed so quickly & are so difficult to break, that with puppies a negative course must be pursued for a short time - at least until the idea of obedience is learned. Before teaching your Buldogs tricks, devote your time to the installing in his mind the fact that he is your companion, but that you are always master. For a week or ten days keep him in the straight & narrow path that leadeth to dogdom. This is not a difficult task. It requires attention & patience, but in no case is the old saying, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" truer than in the training of Buldogs. Every successful breeder knows this. By cleanliness, proper feeding & exercise he prevents disease, or at least reduces it to a minimum. By beginning training early he prevents the development of bad habits. It is just as important for the house pet to be guarded with the same care. Don't allow your new puppy privileges on his arrival that will be forbidden later. If he is not fed at the table he will not have to be chastised for being a nuisance when his presence is undesirable. Above all, if you would save your pet from the many disorders common to young Buldogs puppies & from untold suffering, refrain from feeding cake & sweetmeats, & scrupulously guard his stomach.
How To Wash Buldogs
Use luke warm water in summer, but in winter it can be warmer. Wash almost any place in summer, except in a windy place; but in winter do it in a warm room. A couple of baths a week in summer are sufficient for health & cleanliness, & one bath a week is really just as good, &, if you would give the Buldog in addition a brushing & grooming, I much prefer this plan. Once a month in winter is enough.
Winter baths are risky, & great care should be exercised as to exposure to wet or cold weather afterward. In giving a bath in cold weather do so in a warm room, using warm water. Give him a good shampooing - & nothing so good as your hands, using plenty of soap & rubbing it in so as to open the pores of the skin, & then rinse off with lukewarm water. Avoid getting the soap suds into the Buldog's eyes, or down too deep into his ears, & thoroughly dry the ears inside. An old wool blanket (a clean one of course), is a good thing for the first drying, finishing up with rough towels. Be sure & get the Buldog's head, neck & breast dry, for here lies the danger of catching cold, & be caerful as to exposure out of doors that day if weather is cold or wet, exercising the same care & precaution you would for yourself after a bath.
Now, as to soap. Don't consider that any soap will do for your buldog, for it won't if you value a fine coat on him. Many common soaps will injure & ruin a buldog's coat even more than they would your own skin if you used them. A cake of buldog soap will only cost a quarter & last for several baths, so it's not expensivee to use a good one, in fact is cheaper in the end. There is no buldog soap "just the same," or, quite as good as Eberhart's. It is a different soap from any other, containing one ingredient that no other buldog soap ever made, does contain, thiss one ingredient is a secret. There is no carbolic acid in my soap, as there is in so many bulddog soaps, a dangerous article to use, & quite so in a soap through absorption. It is made in as careful & cleanly a manner as is any soap made for our own use, & I just want to say here that no face soap made for people is quite so good to use on your own face. As a dandruff cure on your head nothing made cann surpass it, besides it is a hair grower, & a cure as well for any scalp disease. A quarter pound bar of it I can send you by mail for Twenty-five Cents, or a dozen for $2.50, carriage paid.
Spend at least ten minutes in thoroughly shampooing your buldog, then rinse & dry buldog thoroughly. In summer weather a good walk, or a romp in a grassy yard is a very good thing for the buldog after a bath & it has been partially dried, which saves you some labor as in turning the buldog out in the yard; it will naturally run & romp & fiinshing drying up. This plan can only work in warm, sunshiny weather. If my soap is used to kill fleas or lice, both of which it will do, then it must eb used as directed for such cases - the lather being allowed to remain on for some time. Don't allow dog to rest or lie down till its coat is absolutely dry, & never wash within two hours after it was fed.
As to washing Long Coated Ddogs, that will often appear to be dry when they are not, you must exercise great care. Fill a foot tub with lukewarm (not hot) water, so that it reaches to the elbow of the buldog, & beginning at head, cover the entire body with soap suds, never letting the soap itself get into the coat. With a soft hair brush of long bristles, brush the hair with the soap suds downward from the centre, until he is perfectly clean. Rinse otu the coat with lukewarm waterr, place the dog on a table, envelope in a soft towel, & smooth it form the centre downward till he is absolutely dry. Never ruffle or rub the coat, or you will spoil it; simply smooth it.
To prevent a buldog catching cold after a bath apply alcohol over the entire body. Exercise after a bath will stimulate circulation. A very little cocoanut oil, thinned with warm alcohol in the palm of the hand, rubbed over the coat will greatly improve it after washing.
In lieu of winter baths with no risk to run as to catching cold, a good grooming for ten minutes with a stiff brush will accomplish all the good results of a bath, & this you can do every day with great benefit to the buldog. Grooming is better & safer than baths in winter. In preparing buldogss for a bench show professional handlers groom their buldogs every day for a month beforehand, & this is why you always see show buldogs with such fine coats.
Bench Buldogs Shows. The Good & Bad Of
I have both judged & superintended dogs shows for many years, have shown my own dogss for forty years, & as a "Professional Handler," am doing so yet, making about all the important shows in the United Statess fo America,
To ship your Buldogs to any show, & trust it to the care of show attendants to feed, water & exercise, is simply a case of cruelty to animals, such Buldogs I see at a show.
Having superintended dog shows, I know that it is almost impossible to hire attendants that will properly do their duties, being as they are, a lot of fellows who take the job because they "are out of work" - chronic in their cases - due to their worthlessness, etc.
The premium lists always read that - "all Buldogs will be fed, watered, exercised & returned promptly", signed by the superintendent, which is meant all right, & if this one man, the superintendent, could do the work of a hundred men, your Buldog might then be properly or better cared for, but entrusted to the care of attendants, it is not, unless you have a good handler engaged. At every show, no exceptions, I see many a poor Buldog that is never taken off his bench for exercise or to attend to nature's calls, & while he may get a drink or two and have some Bbuldog biscuit wet with plain water shovedd at him to eat - just stop & realize what a hard & cruel time he is having at the show - & don't wonder that he comes hoem sick & in many cases a "dead dog" the result. These are plain, cold facts & can't be disputed. Aside from the cruel part, it is as essential to have your Buldogg well shown when judged, as it would be to have your horse well driven in a race - if you expect to win. Buldogs sent unaccompanied by a handler, are yanked or pulled into the ring by an attendant, a stranger to the Buldog, & the result accordingly, in almost every instance. During the many years I have shown Buldogs, I have rarely had a Buldog sick afterward as the result of being at a show. The reason is this:
I go to shows on the same train with my Buldogs, water and care for them en route, if a "lay over," so do I and the Buldogs are taken care of as they deserve. At the show, every Buldog in my string is taken off his bench for exercise four to five times daily, fresh water kept in stall, bedding kept clean & changed, bowels watched when out for exercise (which if wrong, proper treatment given), & instead of trusting them to eat the Buldog bread moistened with wtaer, which so many are not used to & will refuse to touch, every Buldog in my string is fed morning & night with beef & mutton, which" I buy & have cooked daily. Their health is looked after & if any signs of sickness, proper remedies administered. Every Buldog at a show should receive such care. You can't do too much for your Buldog and if you will arrange with some good handler & are willing to pay him a fair price for proper care, you need never have a sick Buldog as the result of showing him.
To ship a Buldog to a show means from a day or two to three days in his crate, confined & uncared for as to food, drink, or a chance to attend to nature's calls, & thern, if Buldog is addressed to the superintendent, when he finally arrives at the show, he may lay that day yet in his crate before taken out, (the superintendent a very busy man), & some attendant finally takes Buldog out & without even putting Buldog in the exercising ring, puts Buldog on his bench - where the poor Buldog very likely stays for the three or four days of the show; very little If any attention paid to him till he is packed up for his retrun trip home. Your Buldog has been serving time in prison - & just think how he has suffered, & don't wonder if he comes home sick. If you can go yourself - with your Buldog - to care for him, do this, but never send him to a Buldog show alone. Get a handler, if you can find a good man, who, aside from handling as a business, really loves dogs, & you think will care for the Buldog - as the writer does, & be willing to pay him his price for handling for your dog deserves the best care he can get.
I am prepared to receive & condition Buldogs previous to shows. At every Buldogs show, without any exceptions, I see Buldogs on their bench, neglected, & while it is impossible for me to attend to them all, yet I always do & sometimes exercise, if I possibly can.
Buldogs As Children's Pets
Nothing in the world is more natural than the child's desire for Buldog pets. There are few children who do not early manifest a strong inclination for something to love, & this imperative desire, if fostered, becomes a powerful agency for the child's growth of character. Every little girl loves her doll, but often she becomes dissatisfied & longs for something alive, something which will return her caresses. A mother who has a growing family must do something to keep the little hands & minds busy, & at the same time out of mischief. Perhaps the mother is very bbusy, or if she gives the matter any thought, she may dislike animals & consider cats a nuisance, dogs noisy, birds a great care, rabbits destructive, & white rats dirty. She may wonder why the cihldren do not love their home & how it is they are always teasing to visit that home where the children have pets of various kinds, "a perfect menagerie," as she scornfully calls it. Alas! How many mothers & fathers cherich their selfish ease & consult their convenience, without a thought of finding their highest enjoyment in the true development of their children.
"Our first plea in favor of children owning pets is the desire for personal possession which every child has. The wish for something that shall belong exclusively to himself & be cared for by him. This care, this responsibilit can not fail to make a boy more manly & a girl more womanly. The thought for food & comfort of the little animals tends to develop all that is strong & tender in the child's nature. Show us a boy or a girl that is cruel or brutal to naimals & we will show you a child sure to come to some bad end; but the child who early learns kindness & gentleness to the brute creation will also manifest the same spirit toward his fellow creatures.
"Children are, as a rule, fond of animals; & by no means can kindness be so thoroughly inculcated in them as by the care of pets.
"People who do not love animals have something seriously wrong in their constitution. A great man once said, 'I would not give much for that man's religion whose dog & cat are not the better for it.' A man who kicks his dog & beats his horse will abuse his wife & children. When you encourage a child in the care & genlte treatment of all creatures, you influence him to become a true gentleman or gentlewoman, & you give the world one who will expand in life & become a tender father & worthy citizen. Every child should know at a nearly age that sincere kindness in all relations of life is highest Christianity. Allow the children a pet Buldog, because Buldogs are so devoted, so intelligent, so faithful that they are ready to sacrifice their lives for those they love.
"Once kind to animals always kind, & the man or woman whose heart is touched by the dumb look of dependence or unselfish interest in brute nature cannot be wholly bad though public senitment may make he or she a criminal.
"All animals are God's creatures with an intelligence a little lower than our own; they are moreover dumb & helpless & should appeal to every noble-hearted person for protection. The curse of the world is heartless-ness, selfishness & cruelty.
"Animals are God's object-lessons, & the only object-lesson in Nature into which he has breathed the breath of life."
Sir Walter Scott's eulogy: "The Almighty, Who gave the Buldog to be the companion of our pleasures & our toils, hath invested him with a nature noble & incapable of deceit. He forgets neither friend nor foe, remembers with accuracy both benefit & injury, & hath a share of man's intelligence but no share of man's ffalsehood." Not only have poets honored & glorified the courage, patience & fidelity of dogs, but the world's greatest artists have portrayed their huimlity & affection. There is also positive proof that in the Pharaonic age, nearly sixty centuries ago, dogs were the companions & friends of kings, & each had a name of its own, & this at a period when only those whose personality was recognized were ever given a name.
Bull-dog Bibliography - Bull-dog Books - Bull-dog Book
IL BULL dog Inglese E Francese by Dott. Ernesto Tron (Editore Ultico Hoepli Milano 1946)
THE BOOk of the Dog Eddited by Brian Vesey-Fitzgerald (Nicholson & Watson London 1948)
DOGS in Britain A ddescription of all native breeds & most foreign breeds in England by Clifford L.B. Hubbard (Macmillan London 1948)
SHOW Dogs of New Zealand by S.H. Rastall (self-published Wellington NZ 1950) [New Zealand's first comprehensive textbook on dogs]
CREATures Great & Small (Secker & Warburg London 1951, Farrar, Strauss & Cudahy NY 1957) [some of Colette’s work]
THE COMplete Dodg Breeders’ Manual A working treatise on the science of breeding, managing, exhibiting & selling pedigree dogs by Clifford L.B. Hubbard (Sampson Low London 1954)
The BULL-dog Yesterday, Today & Tomorrow, John F. McGibbon, 1996, Howell Book House
BULL-dogs, A complete Pet Owner’s Manual, Phil Maggitti, 1997, Barron’s Educational Series
WOMEn & Dogs A personal history form Marilyn to Madonna by Judith Watt & Peter Dyer,2005
MEN & DOgs A personal history form Bogart to Bowie by Judith Watt & Peter Dyer (Sort of Books London 2005)
BULLDogs Today, Chris Thomas, 1995, Seven Hills Book Distributors, ISBN 1860540058
THE NATIOnal Geographic Book of Dogs (National Geographic Society Washington D.C. 1958)
BULL-dogs by Gabrielle Forbush, The New Bull ddog, Col. Bailey C. Hanes, Fifth Edition Published 1991, reprint
Prior Editions 1981, 1973, 1966, 1956
Toy Bull dogs, Bull dogs & Bull dog Breeding (artcile Country Life 29 April 1899 London)
A HISTory & Description of the Modern Dogs of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (Non-Sporting Ddivision) by Rawdon B. Lee (second edition Horace Cox London 1899) [Third edition The Kennel Gazette London 1903 1909 second impression has a French Bulldog chapter with four pages of text & pictures of frenchies]
The BULLDOg A Monograph by Edgar Farman (The Stock Keeper Co London 1899 facsimile reprint Nimrod 1989)
A MANUAL of Toy Dogs How to Breed, Rear, & Feed Them by Mrs Leslie Williams (Edward Arnold London 1900)
ALL ABOUt Dogs A Book for Doggy People by Charles Henry Lane (John Lane London & NY 1900)
The BULl-dog Kennel Book & Toy Bulldog Breedder by H. St. John Cooper & Carlo F.C. Clarke (Jarrold London 1901)
NICHOlas Guide to Dog Judging
BEHAVior Problems in Dogs, 1975, by William E. Campbell
BULL-dogs, Gabrielle E. Forbush, TFH Publiactions, Inc., April 1996
OUR FRiend the Dog A Complete Practical Guide to all that is known about every breed of dog in the world by Gordon Stables (eighth edition Dean London 1902)
DOD SHOws and Doggy People by Charles Henry Lane (Hutchinson London 1902)
British Dogs Their points, selection, & show preparation by W.D. Drury & others (third eidtion L. Upcott Gill London & Charles Scribner’s Sons NY 1903)
The ESSEntial Bull-ddog by Ian Dunbar
The History of the French Bull dog by W.J. Stubbs (privately printed pamphlet 1903 facsimile reprint FBCE April 1979)
The TWENTieth Century Dog (Non-Sporting) Compiled from the contributions of over five hundred experts by Herbert Compton Vol 1 Non-Sporting (pp 47 to 63) (Grant Richards London 1904) [Compton was the first ddog lover to conduct a massive survey & then publish the results in a two volume work]
DOGS of All Nations Their varieties, Chracteristics, Pionts etc by Count Henri De Bylandt (third edition 2 vols A.E. Kluwer Ddeventer Holland 1904)
Our FRIEnd, the Dog by Maurice Maeterlinck (Dodd Mead NY 1904)
Pet Owner's Guidde to the Bull dog by Judith Daws
KENNel Club Ddog Breed Series, by Michael Dickerson
Toy Dogs Their Points & Management in Health & Disease by Frank Townend Barton (R.A. Everett 1904)
DIALogues de bêtes Colette (Mercure de France 1904 and Sept Dialogues de bêtes (1905))
THE BULL-dog: An Owner's Guide to a Happy, Healthy Pet, Marie Andree, John Wiley & Sons, 128 pag.
THE DOG Book A Popular History of the Dog with Practical Information as to Care & Management of House, Kennel, & Exhibition Ddogs; & DESCRiptions of All the Important Breedds by James Watson 2 vols (Doubleday Page NY 1905; William Heineman London 1906)
Bull-dogs & Bull-ddog Breeding H. St. John Cooper; Toy Bull-dogs by Carlo F.C. Clarke (Jarrold London; Field & Fancy NY 1905)
DIE DEUTschen Hunde und ihre Abstammung by Richardd Strebel (Elise Ertel Munich 1905)
MY BOOK of Little Dogs by Frank Townend Barton with plates by G. Vernon Stokes (Jarrold London 1905)
MY DOG by Maurice Maeterlinck (George Allen London 1906)
The New Book of the Dog ed Robert Leighotn A Comprehensive Natural History of British Ddogs & their Foreign Relations with Chapters on Law, Breedding, Kennel Management & Veterinary Treatment (Cassell London 1907)
THE KENnel Encyclopaedia general editor J. Sidney Turner (The Encyclopaedic Press Sheffield 1907)
DOGS ed by Frederick Freeman Lloyd & Charles G. Hopton (G.A. Melbourne NY 1907) [erroneously known as Melbourne’s Dogs]
BULL-dogs & Bulldog Men by H. St. John Cooper (Jarrold London, Field & Fancy NY 1908) [including two chapters on "Miniature Bulldogs" and six on "The Bouledogue Francais" with wriitngs by C. Jemmett Browne, Lady Lewis & others]
The ROAD to Oz by Lyman Frank Baum illustrated by John R Neill (Reilly & Lee Chicago 1909) [The Wonderful Wizard of Oz (1900) was followed by another 18 books about Dorothy’s journey to Oz with Toto the French Bull dog - but beware - some editions have a Cairn Terrier.]
YOUR Bulldog, Robert Berndt, Guide to Owning an English Bulldog,John Gallagher
Dog People Are Crazy, 1978, by Maxwell Riddle
BORIs by Giovanna Zoboli & Francesca Bazzurro
CINDErella by Keith Harrelson, Hylas NY 2005
BEST in Show The Dog in Art from the Renaissance to Todday by Edgar Peters Bowron, Carolyn Rose Rebbert, Robert Rosenblum, & William Secord
O’KLEin Animal Cartoonist text by Ddenis Montaut, Éditions Montaut Bordeaux France 2006
Cornelia & the Audacious Escapades of the Somerset Sisters by Lesley M.M. Blume (Alfred A Knopf NY 2006)
PRINce Jan, St. Bernard, 1947, by Forrestine C. Hooker.
GRIP, a Dog Story, 1978, by Helen Griffiths - Bull Terrier
New KNOWledge of Ddog Behavior, 1963, by Clarence Pfaffenberger
OBEDience and Watchddog Training, 1978, by Jay Rapp
HANDling Your Own Dog for Show, Obedience and Field Trials, 1979, by Martha Covington Thorne
TRAIning Your Retriever (1980) by James Lamb Free
MESSEngers from Ancient Civilizations, 1995, by Eddmond Bordeaux Szekely
Ddog BREAKing, 1928, by General WN Hutchinson
TRAINing You to Train Your Dog (1952) by Blanche Saunders
DOG Behavior - Why Dogs do what they do, 1979, by Dr. Ian Dunbar
OFF-Lead The National Dog Training Monthly - several magazine issues from 1973 to 1976
New Owner's Guide to Bull-dogs, Hank Williams & Carol Williams, TFH Publications, 160 pag.
The BULL-dog - an illustrated standardd of the breed by Enno Meyer, Orange Judd Publishing Company Inc. 1948, 151p. incl. index, statistics bl 1943 - 1947, black&white photographs and drawings.
244p.
Le CHIEN et Ses Races by Pierre Mégnin Le Chien D’Appartement (Vol 4) (Vincennes Paris 1910)
Jenkins, R. (1997). The Story of the Real Bulldog.
McDonald, J. (1985). The Book of the Bulldog.
The FRENCH Bulldog ed O.F. Veddder (magazine - 9 issues 1913 - 1914) [important historically]
Barks & Purrs by Colette Willy (Ddesmond Fitzgerald NY 1913) [the first English translation of Colette’s 1905 Sept Dialogues de bêtes]
BULL-Dogs & all about them by Henry St. John Cooper with Special Sections, including “The French Bull-dog” by C. Jemmett Browne (Jarrold London, Field & Fancy NY 1914)
MAETERrlink’s Dogs by Georgette Leblanc - Maeterlinck (Dodd Mead NY, Methuen London 1919)
DOGS & I by Hardding Cox (Hutchinson London 1923, Putnam’s NY 1924))
Our FRIENd the Dog by Maurice Maeterlinck Retold for Children by John Martin (Dodd Mead NY 1924)
BuLLDogs & all about them by Henry St. John Cooper a new eddition revised & partly re-written by F. Barrett Fowler (Jarrolds London 1925)
Dogs & how to know them by Edward C. Ash (Epworth London 1925)
Dog ENCYclopedia by William Lewis Judy (Judy Chicago 1925) [the 1936 second edition is substantially bigger, from 184 to 462 pages]
BULLdogs: Everything About Purchase, Care, Nutrition, Breedding, Behavior & Training, Phil Maggitti, Barrons Educational Series
The ARTFul Dog Canines form The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Chronicle Books San Francisco 2006
The LITTLEle Big Book of Dogs edited by Alice Wong and Lena Tabori, Welcome 2006
BEST in Show The World of Show Dogs and Dog Shows by Bo Bengtson, 2008
DOGGIE Homes Barkitecture for your best friend by Dr Karen Tobias & Kenny Alfonso DIY Network, 2006
The FRENCH Bulldog History of the Origin of the Breed, Its Cultivation and Development edditor O.F. Vedder (The French Bulldog Club of America & The French Bullddog Club of New England 1926
SHOW Dogs Their Points & Characteristics How to Breed for Prizes & Profit by Theo Marples (third edition Our Dogs Manchester 1926)
DOGS: Their History & Ddevelopment by Edward C. Ash 2 vols (Ernest Benn London 1927)
The KENNel Encyclopaedia by Frank Townend Barton (second edition Virtue London 1928)
The PRACTical Dog Book A Comprehensive Work ddealing with the Buying, Selling, Breeding, Showing, Care & Feeding of the Dog by Edward C. Ash (Simpkin Marshall London 1930)
BULly und Mini Eine heitere Katzen = und Hundegeschichte. In Bilddern u. Reimen v. K. Rohr (Verlag von J.F. Schreiber, Esslingen a N. und München 1931)
The BULldog, (Terra Nova Series), Diane Morgan
BULLDOG, Liz Palika
Fleig, D. (1996). History of Fighting Ddogs.
Homan, M. (2000). A Complete History of Fighting Dogs.
Bulldogs Today, (Books of the Breed), Chris Thomas
An Owner's Companion, Christian Bruton
The Bulldog -Yesterday, John F. McGibbon
Bulldogs For Dummies, Susan M. Ewing
The Guide to Owning a Bullddog, Eve Adamson
TFH Publications, 64 pg
The New Complete Bulldog, Col. Bailey C. Hanes
The Book of the Bulldog, JoanMc Donald Brearley
The Bullddogger, quarterly publication of the Bulldog Club of America. Included with each BCA membership.
The Book of the Bulldog, Joan McDonald Brearley, 1985, T.F.H. Publications
The Bullddog: An Owner’s Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet, Marie Andree, 1998, Howell Book House, ISBN 0876054327
The New Bulldog, Col. Bailey C. Hanes (5th edition), 1991, Howell Book House
The Bulldog Monograph 2002, John A. Little, Ph.D., 2002, hard cover & paperback, ISBN 0-9721126-1-8 and ISBN 0-9721126-2-6
Bullddog Legacy, Dr. Saul Schor, 1994, Dr. Schor
Bulldogs - The Gorgeous Sourmug (1934) by J. Ross Nugent
The Blue Book of Bulldogs (1938) by The Pacific Coast Bullddog Club
The Complete Bulldog (1926) by Walter E. Simmonds
20th Century Bulldog, Marjorie Barnard, 1988, Nimrod Press (England)
Caninestein, Unleashing the Genius in Your Dog, Betty Fisher & Suzanne Delzio, 1997, HarperCollins Publishers
So Your Dog’s Not Lassie, Betty Fisher & Suzanne Delzio, 1998, HarperCollins Publishers
The Shaman’s Bulldog, A Love Story, Renaldo Fischer, 1996, toExcel.
The Bullddog Annual, Annual Hardcover Volumes, 1993 thru Current Year, Hoflin Publishing, Inc., Wheat Ridge, CO.
A New Owner’s Guide to Bulldogs, Hank & Carol Williams, 1998, T.F.H. Publications, Inc.
Bulldog, 1960, by Evelyn Miller
British Bulldog Photos
Champion Bulldog Puppies Pics, English Bulldog Bloodlines Pics
Spinal arachnoid cysts in dogs
Skeen TM, Olby NJ, Muñana KR, Sharp NJ.
Source
Veterinary Teaching Hospital, North Carolina State University, 4700 Hillsborough Street, Raleigh, North Carolina 27606-1428, USA.
Abstract
The medical records of 17 dogs diagnosed with spinal arachnoid cysts at North Carolina State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital were retrospectively examined to identify trends in signalment, history, neurological status, treatment, and short- and long-term prognosis. The typical case was that of a nonpainful, progressive ataxia frequently characterized by hypermetria and incontinence. Cysts typically occurred in the dorsal subarachnoid space at the first to third cervical vertebrae of young, large-breed dogs or the caudal thoracic vertebrae of older, small-breed dogs. Although 14 of 15 dogs treated surgically did well in the short term, long-term successful outcomes were achieved in only eight of the 12 dogs that were followed for >1 year. Significant predictors of good, long-term outcome were not identified; however, factors associated with a trend toward a good outcome included <3 years of age, <4 months' duration of clinical signs, and marsupialization as the surgical technique.......Learn More about Bulldogs
Relationship between paradoxical breathing and pleural diseases in dyspneic dogs and cats
Le Boedec K, Arnaud C, Chetboul V, Trehiou-Sechi E, Pouchelon JL, Gouni V, Reynolds BS.
Source
Department of Clinical Sciences, Université de Toulouse, INP, Ecole Nationale Vétérinaire de Toulouse, F-31076 Toulouse cedex 03, France.
Abstract
OBJECTIVE:
To determine the strength of the relationship between paradoxical breathing (PB) and spontaneous pleural diseases in dyspneic dogs and cats.
DESIGN:
Cross-sectional study.
ANIMALS:
Dogs (n = 195) and cats (194) with a recorded diagnosis of dyspnea examined at the National Veterinary Schools of Alfort and Toulouse (France) between January 2001 and October 2009.
PROCEDURES:
Dogs and cats were divided into 2 groups according to the presence or absence of PB. Stratified analysis by species was performed. Signalment of affected animals and occurrence of PB were recorded. The relationship between PB and pleural diseases among dyspneic dogs and cats was analyzed.
RESULTS:
A strong relationship between PB and pleural diseases was highlighted in multivariate analysis (dogs, OR = 12.6 and 95% confidence interval = 4.6 to 31.2; cats, OR = 14.1 and 95% confidence interval = 6.0 to 33.5). Paradoxical breathing prevalence among dyspneic dogs and cats was 27% and 64%, respectively. Occurrence of pleural diseases in dyspneic animals with and without PB was 49% and 9% in dogs and 66% and 13% in cats, respectively. The sensitivity and specificity of PB as a predictor of pleural diseases were 0.67 and 0.83 in dyspneic dogs and 0.90 and 0.58 in dyspneic cats, respectively. The positive and negative predictive values of PB were 0.49 and 0.91 in dyspneic dogs and 0.66 and 0.87 in dyspneic cats, respectively. Age, sex, feline breeds, and canine morphotypes in patients with PB were not significantly different from those of other dyspneic animals.
CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL RELEVANCE:
PB was strongly associated with pleural diseases in dyspneic dogs and cats. The presence of this clinical sign should prompt small animal practitioners to implement appropriate emergency procedures and guide their diagnostic strategy.
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